What We're Eating, Drinking, and Doing in Chiang Mai Right Now

We've been traveling to Chiang Mai for fifteen years. Fifteen years ago, you couldn't get a decent glass of wine in this city. Now there are several wine bars worth your time, a Michelin-recognized cocktail bar above one of the best restaurants in town, and a coffee scene that has quietly turned Chiang Mai into a destination in its own right. The charm has held. The depth has grown. These are a handful of our current favorites.

A table set at a Northern Thai restaurant in Chiang Mai, Thailand

Exploring Chiang Mai on a warm evening in January

Three Michelin-Recognized Restaurants in Chiang Mai

Michelin doesn't always get Thailand right. They got these three right.

Understated but warm interior of Kiti Panit, Chiang Mai, Thailand

Understated but warm interior of Kiti Panit, Chiang Mai, Thailand

Kiti Panit is wood-paneled, atmospheric, equally good for lunch or dinner, with delightful cocktails. The menu changes often and everything we've eaten here has been excellent. The standout on our last visit was a Gaeng Om — the Northern herbal curry — made with mackerel. We make a respectable version at home. We have nothing on Kiti Panit.

Gaeng Om at Kiti Panit in Chaing Mai, Thailand

Gaeng Om at Kiti Panit in Chaing Mai, Thailand

Michelin recommended Krua Pech Doi Ngam in Chiang Mai

Michelin recommended Krua Pech Doi Ngam in Chiang Mai

Krua Phech Doi Ngam is a literal tour of Northern food. Sprawling, indoor and outdoor, with an encyclopedic menu to match. Go with as many people as you can and be fearless in your ordering. All of the yam — the salads — are phenomenal, including dishes we haven't seen anywhere else. A small plate of fried Naem, the fermented sour sausage, was one of the simplest and best things we ate the entire trip.

Local dining in Chiang Mai: Fried Naem at Krua Pech Doi Ngam

Fried Naem at Krua Pech Doi Ngam - Delicious!

Rasik Local Kitchen got a Bib Gourmand from Michelin. They didn't give it a star. They got that wrong. Tiny space, tight menu, the spiciest and most delicious Thai yam we've ever had — with blueberries, of all things. Every grilled item on the menu is flawless. Make a reservation, go, and order the local beer. The service is warm.

Rasik Kitche, Chiang Mai, Thailand

Enjoying local beer to wash down the incredible flavors and spice of Rasik Kitchen

For Cocktails: North Country

Directly above Kiti Panit, North Country is one of the places genuinely moving craft cocktails forward in Chiang Mai. Finding it via a slightly mysterious passageway and up stairs only adds to the anticipation. The interior is striking — a long, solid wood counter runs the length of the room. The drinks are spirit-forward, pristine, and have no gimmicks. Also, the peanuts. We learned that some people come back just for the peanuts. We understand why.

Craft Cocktail Bar in Chiang Mai

Striking North Country’s interior is more reminiscent of a hidden Tokyo bar

Craft Cocktails at a Speakeasy style bar in Chiang Mai, Thailand

Go for the cocktails. Stay for the peanuts.

For Coffee: Graph

Not new, but excellent. The activated charcoal beverages are deeply instagrammable and also genuinely delicious. If you're a purist, the espresso and cappuccino are more than solid. Multiple locations, all comfortable. Chiang Mai's coffee scene has been building quietly for years — Graph is just one reason why it deserves more credit than it gets.

Graph Coffee, Chiang Mai, Thailand

Inventive coffee that echoes craft cocktail as much as bespoke latte

For Wellness

Fah Lanna has been around for a while and remains consistently excellent across multiple locations. Pleasant atmosphere, excellent treatments, and prices that are a fraction of what you'd pay in Bangkok or Phuket, never mind back home. Plenty of package options, all worth considering.

Ziam Spa is men's only, conveniently located, and offers strictly professional services by male therapists. This is where to go for a truly firm massage in comfortable surroundings. An excellent and queer-affirming option.


Planning a trip to Chiang Mai? We've been going for fifteen years — we know where to eat, what to skip, and how to build a trip around what you actually want.Reach out and let's talk.

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